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Boca’s third incarnation, powerful and refined, is a pitch-perfect aria that shatters conventional expectations while proffering rich, complex dishes originally created for comfort. Housemade pasta with slowly simmered Bolognese—a nod to the restaurant’s origin as a Northside trattoria—is prepared with such attention to detail that it easily holds its own next to the more continental beef Wellington. The plush men’s club vibe of the lounge area is punctuated by the pewter bar, where casual diners can dig into dry-aged Pat LaFrieda-blend burgers while bartenders happily guide them through a 200-bottle wine list, rich in Old World choices.