Anna Ree’s Andouille

Simple, hardy peasant fare distinguishes Cajun food. In this 150-year-old roadhouse along U.S. Route 52, the sausage and chicken jambalaya is robust and spicy, the jumbo frog legs battered and fried with the right proportion of shine to crunch, the blackened Gulf Coast grouper neither overblackened nor overcooked as it so often can be. Gumbo is dark and smoky from a chocolate brown roux, the étouffée mild and golden from a nut-colored roux. Okra thickens the gumbo, and appears again as milk-soaked, deep-fried nuggets. You’ll find plenty to eat, plenty to drink, plenty of music, and plenty of cheer.

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