Check Out These Six Fancy Brunches—With One Flashy Surprise

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Red Feather
On Sundays, Red Feather serves up a dining experience worth traveling for. The rustic yet elegant main dining room is as comforting as its carefully prepared-from-scratch cuisine. The Hash Mess in particular is a generous mountain of goodness: Fried breakfast potatoes are layered with seared bell peppers and spinach, sliced avocado, melted cheddar, ranch, and tender pork belly pieces, before being topped with a sunny-side-up egg and pico de gallo. Sit at the chef’s table to watch the magic happen. Owner and head chef Brad Bernstein calls out orders as his team puts it all together. Plus, everyone receives complimentary melt-in-your-mouth beignets. Can your Sunday get any better? Sun 11–3, 3200 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 407-3631, redfeatherkitchen.com

Symphony Hotel
If “brunch in a mansion” is the vibe you’re looking for, the Symphony Hotel should be your first stop. The dining room of this boutique hotel across from Music Hall is finely appointed, the staff quietly doting. Try one of two omelettes, the Schubert (smoked salmon, cream cheese, scallion, and caper garnish) or Mozart (button mushrooms in a red wine, garlic, and shallot sauté), or dig into the Washington Park Strada, an egg, goetta, and bacon casserole with tomato, green chilies, purple Peruvian potatoes, and sharp cheddar cheese. A tea bar features more than a dozen loose-leaf French press teas. Sun 9:30–2, 210 W. 14th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-3353, symphonyhotel.com

Salazar
There’s no doubt: José Salazar—a 2016, 2017, and 2018 James Beard Award nominee—has made his mark on the city’s lunch and dinner scene with both Salazar and Mita’s. His recent move to take up brunch at his cozy namesake bistro may have been his best decision yet. With a mix of the lunch and dinner menu offerings we have grown to love are new, brunch-only items. One of the former, the small-but-mighty-in-flavor fried oyster sandwich with kimchi, radish sprouts, and garlic mayo, makes for a delightful mid-morning bite. Or try the heartier croque madame, a sandwich made with challah bread, slow-roasted turkey, and Swiss mornay, all topped with an egg and maple syrup. Don’t forget to share the packed-with-flavor fried Brussels sprouts or home fries. Wash it all down with a morning cocktail: the Sunset Key tastes like a distant cousin of the mimosa, made with tequila, blood orange juice, Fresno chile, and prosecco. Sat & Sun 10:30–2, 1401 Republic St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 621-7000, salazarcincinnati.com

Metropole Drag Brunch
Honey, this isn’t about the food—though it’s Metropole, so you won’t be disappointed. We had a Tuscan kale strata with Blue Oven bread and hash brown casserole, served family-style—homey favorites leveled up with fresh ingredients and perfect technique. Drag brunch happens every other month, February through October, and it’s all about fabulousness. Amaya Sexton serves as mistress of ceremonies, overseeing a cast of six other queens through dance-filled, lip-synced (or not-so-synced) routines that take them around the dining room. Pro tips: Bring singles for tipping, and fellas, look alive—these ladies are going to be after you. Sun 11:30–2, June, Aug, and Oct; 609 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 578-6660, metropoleonwalnut.com


The Grille at Palm Court
The Grille at Palm Court, Orchids’ casual cousin, ranks pretty high on our roster of classy brunch joints, even if it does include a buffet. To be clear, this is the choosy person’s smorgasbord: Its lengthy island bar is cleared and surrounded by a spread of high-quality dishes spanning the breakfast-lunch genres, including the obligatory egg-and-bacon go-tos as well as less expected fixings like crab claws and Southern fried chicken. Wherever you land on that spectrum is your call, but clear your plans after this one; you may just need to lie down until the impending food coma subsides. Sun 10:30–1:30, 35 W. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 421-9100, orchidsatpalmcourt.com

Sartre
One of the best new restaurants in town is now taking its talents to brunch. Start off with a selection of local pastries or the housemade sweet potato beignets with smoked maple syrup. These are more substantial doughnut holes than sweetened puffs, and they’ll disappear from the table quickly. We ventured beyond the avocado toast and The Usual (two eggs, bacon, toast) to try the buckwheat crepe, spread on the inside with herbed mascarpone and topped with smoked salmon, frisee in a lemony dressing, and a crunchy housemade vegan furikake, inspired by the Japanese seasoning that most typically accompanies fish. That’s next-level. Sun 10–2, 1910 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 579-1910, sartreotr.com

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