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You may be having pre-seasonal dreams about restaurant menus filled with spring pea tendrils, sautéed ramps, and fiddlehead ferns. But as a fan of root vegetables and slow-cooked anything, I’m not so eager to say farewell to winter. Which is why, last Friday, I had an order of maple-roasted squash tucked alongside “Porkopols”—that rich trio o’ pig parts that Local 127 chef Steve Geddes does so well. I figured it was probably my last chance at scoring squash before next October.
I’m pretty sure the side dish was meant to be shared; it was substantial. But since my Significant Other does not eat squash—well, more for me. And it got me to thinking: the city’s restaurants are doing a great job featuring local produce. So why don’t more of them regularly include at least one plant-based entrée on their menus? Not just a “small plate” or a salad or a couple random veg hastily plated together for the wayward vegan who wanders in, but a dish deliberately showcasing the season’s finest, sans cooked flesh? I’d go for that. Not that I’d pass up Chef Geddes’s Porkopolis.