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Pizza Bomba

Comic Relief

The very first thing you notice about Pizza Bomba is that it smells exactly how a pizza parlor should smell: of simmering garlic. The very next thing you notice about this small urban storefront—a brick-and-mortar companion to the food truck original—is the wisecracking menu. Read closely and you’ll find a wink, smirk, or inside joke in just about every item: The Kentucky 3 Way adds barbecued pork, white beans, and pickled jalapeños to Cincinnati’s familiar chili parlor dish (and is appropriate for the setting, since Pizza Bomba lies just across the river in downtown Covington). The Meathead Sundae layers more barbecue with gnocchi, elbow macaroni, and sausage. The Banging Elvis riffs off The King’s favorite sammy with savory Thai peanut butter, pepper jelly, and bacon (and blessedly removes banana from the equation). Though the menu suggests a refreshing, devil-may-care unpretentiousness, don’t assume you’re in for a divey pizza experience. Where the creativity shines is in the pizzas themselves. Toppings go beyond standard options to include fresh mozzarella, buffalo chicken breast, caramelized peppers, and chicken parm meatballs. The standout pizza is—despite its gross name—the Load of BS, with bright green (read: perfectly cooked) Brussels sprout leaves, salty bacon, and sweet, creamy ricotta cheese. Within this very pie rests Pizza Bomba’s entire philosophy: To serve up imaginative, genuinely good pizza with a dose of shameless smartassery. Which brings me to Beerimisu. That’s tiramisu boozed up with Guinness and Bailey’s, packed into a no-nonsense single-serving condiment cup. I’d expect nothing less.

Pizza Bomba, 14 E. Fifth St., Covington, (859) 814-8892.