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Photograph by Anna Knott
Long before sushi somehow un-disgusted itself to the Western World, China had houses of dim sum. Uncle Yip’s valiantly upholds that tradition in Evendale.
Like sushi, dim sum dumplings are kind of an Asian tapas: snack-sized, so your table can order a variety to share. But if you think this might be one of those cuisine-de-jour trendy places—you know, where the chef is just out of chefery school and trying desperately to mash up culinary cultures—you’re way off. This is a traditional dim sum house with all manner of exotic dumplings, including shark fin or beef tripe with ginger and onion. Disgusting? Hey, if you eat raw, dead fish wrapped in seaweed, this should be a piece of cake.
As for the seafood part of the restaurant’s full name, Uncle Yip has most everything the sea has to offer, from lobster to mussels. The menu has more than 260 items, so you’ll find a range of favorites, from moo goo gai pan to rock salt frog legs.
Is Uncle Yip’s authentic? That’s a vague word. But you’ll find that English is definitely a second language here, and there’s typically a high concentration of diners representing many Asian countries. If your definition of authentic includes exotic menu items—Peking duck and baby cuttlefish—this is authentic. If it means carts full of dim sum rushed around to your table at lunch, this is authentic. And if it’s being open on a holiday, well then, this is the real deal.
Uncle Yip’s Seafood and Dim Sum, 10736 Reading Rd., Evendale, (513) 733-8484
Originally published in the January 2014 issue.