Fine Diving: The Anchor Grill, Covington

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The waitress agrees with my theory about the pinball machine on really short legs. We think it’s a convenience for late-night revelers who can’t stand up. Being open 24/7 tends to draw the inebriated, and you’ll find them here at The Anchor Grill in the wee hours, sobering up enough to go home. Heck, I’ve even seen one or two at the counter at noon nursing a hangover-curing breakfast of eggs (it’s the protein), home fries (the starch soothes the stomach), and goetta (well, they’re obviously still not coherent enough to skip the goetta). The food at The Anchor is especially great at 4 a.m., when open restaurants are few and far between. The menu runs the diner gamut and even ventures into fried shrimp and breaded veal. The white bean soup and cornbread remains a personal favorite, whatever the hour. And the vegetables are listed on the menu as “made to order” but that list only includes onion rings and potatoes with onions, cheese, and brown or sausage gravy. When you mention The Anchor in Covington, people say “I’ve heard of the place.” When you describe its quirky nautical theme, people say “I think I remember that place.” When you bring up the pinball machine on foot-high legs, people say “I swear I’ve played that.” You’ve probably been there yourself, but maybe were too stewed to remember.

Originally published in the August 2014 issue

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