I don’t use the phrase “meat explosion” lightly, but at Wurst Bar in the Square, it’s practically required. From starters to entrées, short rib chili to cured pork sausage, meat is the name of the game. There is one lone salad on offer, but even it is trimmed with cherry wood bacon, andouille croutons, and Dijon bacon vinaigrette. That’s not to say Wurst Bar is simply a caveman hangout for paleo-dieters (though the shadowy, shotgun-style storefront on Mt. Lookout Square is suspiciously cave-like). Evidence? The sausages are tricked out with creative garnishes that range from fire-roasted green chiles and sweet pickled jalapeños to olive roasted garlic tapenade and Boursin cheese. All fixed up, the sausages themselves are the size of footballs, and practically everything comes served with pitch-perfect sea salt French fries. Not to be left out, rolls get special consideration, too. Patrons have three choices—dense four grain, sweet Brioche, or fluffy Italian—all of which stand up to the onslaught of rich, saucy toppings.
Non-carnivores have a small but worthy set of options as well. The Euro-style tofu sausage with basil and sundried tomato comes with a glorious port wine reduction of mushrooms and shallots. And the Yukon Cornelius does not disappoint: With rustic apple sausage, creamy Yukon Gold potatoes, enough savory sage to give it herbal heft, and a slick of spicy-sweet mustard, even the most committed carnivores will agree it’s worth its weight in silver and gold.
Wurst Bar in the Square, 3204 Linwood Ave., Mt. Lookout, (513) 321-0615, facebook.com/wurstbarinthesq
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