You’ll get a hint of it on your way up the hill. You’ll catch a glimpse of it as you park your car. You’ll practically skip down the sidewalk toward it, and before you walk into Incline Public House, you’ll stand in awed appreciation for at least two minutes. The expansive restaurant, set atop Price Hill, commands a mighty view of Cincinnati, and takes full advantage with a double-decker back porch and a wall of windows. Incline also serves dishes that you don’t need a view to enjoy. As in most pubs, the menu gives way to the deep fryer more often than not. But unlike most, their offerings are fresh, clever, and served with housemade sauces, meats, and cheeses. We started with the Andouille corndogs and were briefly deflated when they arrived looking like corndog pops. But the small, spicy pieces of batter-fried sausage dipped in habañero ketchup have forever ruined me for carnival corndogs (and in hindsight, an entire Andouille sausage on a stick would’ve been frightening). Most of the menu is rich beyond belief. Sliders don’t have hamburger, they have lamb, duck confit, or—along with the grilled cheese—braised short ribs. Spicy pickle fries are literally fried pickles, and perfectly combine salty brine with crispy fat. The mac and cheese comes crusted with a layer of crushed Grippo’s Bar-B-Q chips. The Garbage pizza has four kinds of meat, including bacon, pastrami, pepperoni, and sausage, plus an egg for good measure. And since this is in fact a pub, wash all that richness down with a craft beer. Before you leave, look over your shoulder at the city one more time. At sunset, the skyline sings.
2601 W. Eighth St., Price Hill, (513) 251-3000, inclinepublichouse.com
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