With personalized symphonic service (raise your hand if you know what B.P.A., their service mantra acronym, stands for), rich pastas like squid ink tagliolini (I should be touting the lobster and scallops that partner with it, but honestly, I could eat those spiced bread crumbs off my arm) and lumache all’amatriciana (with house-cured guanciale), and a roster of enterprising chefs, Chef/Owner David Falk has sustained a velocity that’s rare in a business that demands it. Which is perhaps why they’ve slid down my list this year. Their renowned nonstop energy and ambition is focused on a new project; Boca and a new second restaurant will open later this year in the former Maisonette building. The result? A bit of a downshift and a few clumsy dishes. That’s what happens when you set the standard of “Blowing People Away” (see above). It’s difficult to accept anything less. 3200 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 542-2022, boca-restaurant.com
Photograph by Anna Knott Originally published in the March 2012 issue.
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