Home Authors Posts by Donna Covrett
Because a good portion of my job included critiquing restaurants, we thought it would be fun to turn the tables and invite chefs and restaurateurs to critique me. So we created a Sunday night pop-up dinner, invited a few dozen restaurant industry folk, charged them money, and handed out score sheets. We asked them to be honest. They were.
This is the mousse I made at Mecklenburg Gardens in the late '70s. I am indebted to Master Chef Eugene Bernard, a Frenchman, disciple of Escoffier, renowned respected chef, and generous teacher. It is a classic preparation using hot sugar syrup and therefore requires attention and a gentle hand. Your patience will be rewarded—to this day I have never found a chocolate mousse I like better than his.
Kaze showcases many dishes and traditions of Japan, but it’s a stretch to identify it singularly as a Japanese restaurant. It has roots in an *izakaya* eatery, best defined as casual gastropub or small plate restaurant, traditionally serving noodles, skewered meats, sushi, and sake (*izakaya* translates somewhat to “hang out in a sake shop”), but Kaze still has one foot in the great American canon of hearty main courses.