Recipes

Pears Poached In Red Wine

Donna Covrett — Fri, 14 Dec 2012 15:39:00 GMT

This is one of my favorite recipes. It not only makes a gorgeous and light dessert, but also adds elegance and a pop of spicy sweetness to salads and savory dishes. If serving the pears whole as a dessert, there’s an unusual step I learned as a pastry chef to achieve a smooth brilliant surface. Click here to view the step-by-step photo gallery.

Serves 8

Ingredients

8 ripe but firm Bosc or Bartlett pears
4 cups red wine (approx.1⅓ bottles; I use Zinfandel, Shiraz, or Petite Syrah)
1 cup water
1¾ cup granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean
1 orange
1 lemon
2 cinnamon sticks
3 whole star anise
A few whole cloves
A few whole black peppercorns
5-6 quart pot
1 unused Scotch Brite scour pad

Directions

Cut a wide piece of peel from both the lemon and orange, and then juice each. Add half the lemon juice to a bowl of cold water. In the pot over a medium flame combine wine, water, sugar, spices, peels, and remaining citrus juices. While the liquid heats, peel the pears, slice a small piece from the bottom of each (this helps them to stand upright on the plate) and remove seeds with a corer. Drop them in the bowl of cold lemon water.

Secret tip: To achieve the smooth surface, “sand” each pear lightly with the green Scotch Brite scour pad.

When the liquid comes to a boil, reduce the flame so that it is simmering and add the pears. Cover the pears with a plate so that they are completely submerged in the liquid.

Simmer for 20 minutes. Turn the flame off and allow the pears to completely cool in the liquid for at least a few hours and up to a day or more (the longer they remain in the poaching liquid, the stronger the flavor and color). Refrigerate if you are leaving them in for more than a few hours.

To serve: Remove pears from poaching liquid. Return the liquid to the stove and reduce over medium-high heat until it begins to get slightly syrupy. Serve pears standing in a pool of the syrup.

Other serving suggestions: I love them best standing in a pool of cold vanilla bean crème anglaise (sauce). They are also wonderful with sweetened mascarpone or crème fraîche. Try slicing and serving them warm over gelato with toasted pistachios. For a salad: slice the pears, fan over greens tossed in vinaigrette. Add some toasted walnuts and a little Stilton cheese.

The poaching liquid can be customized to suit your taste or the ingredients you have on hand. I often use a dry Riesling, honey (instead of sugar), a sprig of thyme, bay leaf, and vanilla, then serve the pears with a buttery almond shortbread. Gingerroot, cardamom seeds, and orange is a lovely combination, or try poaching the pears in a brandy-based liquid and serve with chocolate or caramel sauce. Whatever you decide to use, keep it simple and don’t overwhelm the fruit.

Photo by Donna Covrett

Cream Eggs

Fri, 31 Aug 2012 20:36:00 GMT

Got a bunch for brunch? Cream Eggs are scrumptious and easy to make. The classic version pairs mustard with tarragon, but see notes below for some of my other favorite flavor combinations—or create your own.

Serves 6

Ingredients

½ cup cream (I love Snowville)
1-2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, or to taste
1 dozen eggs
¼ cup each (generous) parmiggiano reggiano and pecorino romano, grated
1-2 tablespoons fresh tarragon, chopped fine
unsalted butter
sea salt and pepper

Directions

Heat oven to 350°. Butter the bottom of an oblong casserole dish. Add mustard to cream, and pour into dish. Break open eggs one at a time on top of cream, taking care to leave whole. Salt and pepper to taste. Distribute grated cheese. Check eggs after 15 minutes, and sprinkle with tarragon. Bake for a total of 20–25 minutes, or until eggs are set.

Tips

This dish opens itself up to other cream + cheese + herb combinations. Here are a few of my favorite:

Flavor cream with roasted garlic; fresh basil in place of tarragon.
Cream: Sweet Thai chili sauce (available at Saigon Market or other area Asian markets). Cheese: Halloumi. Herb: Cilantro
Cream: Reduced white wine and garlic. Cheese: Gruyere. Herb: Chives
Cream: Shallots, sliced thin and sautéed. Cheese: Goat. Herb: Italian parsley.
Cream: Salsa and chopped roasted jalapeno Cheese: Cotijo. Herb: Cilantro

How to Grill Pizza the Jeremy Luers Way

Thu, 28 Jun 2012 11:00:00 GMT

(serves 8)

Quattro formaggi pizza with grilled corn and scallions 

Farro salad

Potato salad with fennel

Lemon and cucumber cocktail

Pizza on the grill? You bet. Think about the best wood-fired pizzas you’ve had and you get the idea. After workingfor grilled pizza master Mario Batali in New York City, Jeremy Luers brought his pizza-making knowledge to Cincinnati last year via his O’Bryonville restaurant, Enoteca Emilia. Grilling pizza is easier than you think—and no, you won’t lose the dough through the grates. Luers says it involves nothing more than a gentle hand and pre-grilling the unadorned dough on both sides before topping it and giving it a final sear. Don’t overwork the dough trying to form it into a perfect circle. So what if it’s a little misshapen? That gives it rustic appeal and announces it’s handmade.

Pizza Dough

(yields six to eight 10-inch pizzas)

4 cups warm water (110 degrees, or warm to touch) 

1 Tablespoon dry active yeast 

2 teaspoons sugar 

2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra 

2 Tablespoons mild flavored honey

1 Tablespoon kosher salt 

10–12 cups “00” flour (a finely milled soft grain flour; you can substitute all-purpose flour)

Mix water, yeast, sugar, and 2 teaspoons of flour. Set in warm spot for 10–15 minutes until foamy. In the bowl of a stand mixer with dough hook, mix the yeast mixture, olive oil, honey, and salt for 30 seconds. Add remaining flour and mix on low until combined. Turn speed to medium and mix until dough becomes elastic. (Squeeze it; it shouldn’t stick to your hand. Add a little more flour if it does.) Place in well-oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and set in a warm spot. Once it doubles in size, punch it down, knead it for a few seconds, and cut into five-ounce portions. Roll each into a ball, place on a tray, and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight. To use, let dough sit at room temperature for 15–20 minutes. Heat grill to high. On a baking sheet drizzle 2 Tablespoons of olive oil. Press the dough into an 8-inch circle, then place on oiled pan. Remove dough from pan and put directly over the flame or coals, oiled side down. Once top begins to bubble, check the bottom. When it has some good char (but not too much), brush top with a little oil, flip, and repeat.

Quattro Formaggi Pizza

3–4 ears fresh corn (approx. 1 cup grilled corn)

4 scallions, thinly sliced, green part only 

2 balls fresh mozzarella (break into coin-size pieces)

6 ounces ricotta cheese (coin-size chunks) 

4 ounces Fontal (Italian fontina; available at specialty cheese shops like Krause’s in Findlay Market)  

A few ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano for grating

Sea salt & pepper to taste

Preheat grill to medium high. Rub corn with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and place on the grill. Once the corn starts to char, rotate it every few minutes for even char. When done, place in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap to steam for 15 minutes. Uncover and cool. Cut kernels off cob. On pre-grilled dough, spread ricotta and mozzarella, cup corn, and a thin layer of fontina. Place pizza on indirect heat, close lid, and cook 3 minutes, or until cheese is melted and bubbly and the dough has crisped up. Remove from grill. Sprinkle with scallions, salt, and pepper. Grate Parmigiano evenly across, and drizzle with a little olive oil.

Farro Salad “Panzanella Style” 

Farro is a nuttier, crunchier cousin to wheat, popular in Italy.

1 ½ cups farro (makes 3 cups when cooked

 2 bay leaves 

2 garlic cloves, smashed

 1 Tablespoon salt

¾ cup English cucumber partially peeled & diced (Luers recommends leaving some peel on)

  1 ½ cups diced tomato (Luers prefers heirloom varieties) 

½ cup thinly sliced red onion 

1–2 cloves of garlic, grated on a zester

 ½ cup packed basil leaves, hand torn 

¼ cup celery heart leaves (optional)

 1/3 cup sherry vinegar (can substitute red wine or balsamic)

 1/2 to 2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil 

Salt and pepper to taste

Place farro in a small pot. Cover with cold water by about an inch. Add bay leaves, garlic, and salt. Bring to a boil and reduce to a slow simmer. Make sure water does not drop below the farro. Cook to al dente—a little chewy and starting to burst open. Once cooked, strain and lay out in a thin layer on a baking sheet. Chill. While the farro cools, prepare herbs and vegetables. Lightly salt cucumbers and tomatoes. Place them in a strainer above a bowl. Let sit for 15–30 minutes. Discard liquid. Place farro in a bowl and break up with a spoon. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix thoroughly. Taste for seasoning and adjust if needed (Luers prefers his slightly more acidic).

Potato Fennel Salad

2 pounds fingerling potatoes 

2 large or 3 small fennel bulbs, shaved thinly on mandolin (pick and reserve some of the fronds) 

4 ounces baby arugula

 ½ cup grilled lemon vinaigrette (recipe follows)

 Salt and pepper to taste

Place potatoes whole in a pot and cover with cold water. Add about a Tablespoon of salt. Bring to a boil, and cook until fork tender, approximately 15–20 minutes. Do not over-cook. (The potatoes should have some texture.) Once cooked, strain and place potatoes on a baking sheet and refrigerate until completely cool. Slice in half-inch rounds and place in a bowl. Add shaved fennel. Dress potatoes and fennel with half of the vinaigrette and marinate for 15–30 minutes. Just before serving, add baby arugula, the remaining vinaigrette, salt, and pepper. Lightly toss by hand. Check for seasoning and serve immediately.

Grilled Lemon Vinaigrette

10 lemons (which will yield 3/4 cup juice)

 ¼ cup fresh lemon juice

 ¼ cup drained capers 

2 Tablespoons (1 ounce) anchovies (packed in oil)

 2 teaspoons grated garlic (on zester)

 1 Tablespoon minced shallot

1 Tablespoon Dijon mustard 

1 ½ cups vegetable oil

 ½ cup extra virgin olive oil  

Salt and pepper to taste

Halve lemons. Grill over medium heat for about 15 minutes. Remove from grill and set aside until cool enough to handle. Juice them, straining seeds. Place all ingredients except oils in a blender and blend until smooth. Slowly add oils with blender running until all oil is added. Check seasoning. (You can also do this using an immersion blender.)

Lemon-Cucumber Cocktail (a.k.a. Grown Up “Creek Water”)

½ cup mint leaves 

¼ cup cucumber (for muddling) plus slices for garnish

2 cups gin (Luers is a fan of Plymouth)

 2 cups fresh squeezed lemon juice 

2 cups cucumber-mint simple syrup (recipe follows) 

2 cups soda water (can also use Italian sparkling water) 

 1 lemon thinly sliced (seeds removed) for garnish

In a large pitcher muddle mint and cucumber for a minute or so with 1 cup of the gin. Add remaining gin, lemon juice, and simple syrup. Chill. When ready to serve add soda water, lemon and cucumber garnish, and stir. Pour into eight glasses filled with ice.

Cucumber-Mint Simple Syrup 

2 cups sugar 

2 cups water 

12 sprigs mint 

1 cup seeded and finely diced cucumber 

1 whole cardamom

Combine all in a saucepan. Bring to a boil. Boil for 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Cool completely. Strain.

Part of this menu was originaly published in the July 2012 issue.

Photograph by Chris Smith

How to Grill a Perfect Burger the Todd Hudson Way

Thu, 28 Jun 2012 11:00:00 GMT

(serves 8)

Ohio burger

Grilled farmer’s salad

Pommes frites

White sangria with grilled fruit

Chef Todd Hudson gives props to the cow and the pig for landing his burger on the cover (and atop the list) of Cincinnati Magazine’s 40 Best Burgers in the Queen City in 2010. The secret? Hudson insists that pasture-raised meats from the small-herd Webb Valley Farm in Wilmington (pictured at left)—like all of the local and regionally sourced ingredients that contribute to the seasonal menu at his Mason restaurant, The Wildflower Café—make the difference in building a superior burger. Hudson recommends that you season the tomato “like your grandma would after she picked the tomato fresh from her garden.” No fresh tomatoes? Hudson says skip it and use sun-dried tomatoes instead.

Ohio Burger

3 pounds grass-fed beef, ground

1 pound pastured pork, ground

2 Tablespoons black pepper

3 Tablespoons kosher salt

8 half-dollar-size coins of herb butter (made earlier in the day; see recipe below)

½ pound Blue Jacket Dairy mozzarella (made in Bellefontaine, Ohio, it’s available at Whole Foods and area farm markets)

Desired dressing: tomatoes, onions, lettuce, etc.

8 pretzel buns (available at Trader Joe’s), or local artisanal bread like the Blue Oven English muffins at left

Herb Butter: Soften ½ pound of quality sweet cream butter to room temperature. Stir in 1 Tablespoon each chopped fresh rosemary, parsley, and oregano, plus 1 teaspoon minced garlic. Salt and pepper to taste. Roll into a small log on wax paper and freeze. Slice into half-dollar-size rounds.

Burgers: Combine beef and pork. Season with salt and pepper. Divide into 16 thin 4-ounce patties. Top 8 with a coin-sized piece of herb butter, stack another patty on top of each, and pinch edges to seal butter in (if you leave any holes, the butter will leak out). Over hot coals or gas grill, cook burgers to 140 degrees or medium (the USDA recommended cooking temp for pork), flipping only once. Place an ounce of cheese on top in the last minute. Lightly butter and toast the buns on the grill. Dress with local, seasonal vegetables, and serve.

Farmer’s Salad

Hudson uses wild chives from his yard, but you urban folks can pick them up from the market. He likes the lettuce and beets from Walnut Ridge Acres, buttermilk from Dell Farms, and cucumber from That Guy’s Family Farm. Look for them—or your favorite farmer—at local farm markets.

Dressing:

12 ounces yogurt

4 ounces buttermilk

1 Tablespoon garlic, chopped

½ teaspoon granulated onion

10 wild chives, snipped or minced

4 sprigs of fresh dill, chopped

3 teaspoons kosher salt

2 Tablespoons fresh squeezed lemon juice

1 Tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

Dash of Sriracha sauce

1 Tablespoon dill pickle juice

½ teaspoon dry mustard

Mix all the ingredients together with a wire whisk, and let the flavors make love for a few hours. (Bonus tip: Makes a great overnight marinade for chicken. Grill it the next day.)

Salad ingredients:

2 beets, peeled and diced

1 English cucumber, peeled and julienned

1 carrot, peeled and julienned

12 mint leaves, chopped fine

2 Tablespoons olive oil

1 Tablespoon white balsamic vinegar

1 package Gretna Grillin’ from Blue Jacket Dairy (a halloumi style cheese made in Bellefontaine, Ohio; available at farm markets and Whole Foods)

4 small heads romaine lettuce

Croutons (Hudson makes his own using bread from Blue Oven Bakery)

Toss beets with salt, pepper, and a bit of sugar. Place them inside a foil packet, dot with butter, and seal. Grill over hot coals for approximately ½ hour. Set aside. Toss cucumber, carrot, and mint together. Season with salt and pepper, a pinch of sugar, olive oil, and white balsamic vinegar. Set aside. Brush a few slices of bread with olive oil. Place on grill away from direct heat. You want it to char a bit, but also to dry out. Dice into cubes when ready.

Have all of the ingredients and plates ready, then grill the cheese and lettuce: Rub some olive oil on the cheese, and grill it on a low-heat area of the grill. (“It seems dumb, but trust me, it works,” Hudson says.) When ready, dice it into cubes of gooey goodness. Split the lettuce heads in half with the root intact. Season with olive oil, salt and pepper, and grill for about 1 minute. Chop root off when finished. Chop lettuce roughly and toss with buttermilk dressing. Place dressed lettuce on the plate and top with the cucumber slaw, beets, cheese, and croutons.

Pommes Frites

8 large potatoes

Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper

Olive oil

4 garlic cloves, chopped

A few sprigs of fresh rosemary (set aside one for garnish, chop the rest)

Truffle oil (optional)

Slice raw potatoes and julienne to the size of fast food fries (you can also use a mandoline). Toss fries in a bowl with salt, pepper, and enough olive oil to coat them well. Place in a foil package with chopped fresh rosemary. Add chopped garlic and seal package so it can steam. Place over hot coals and grill for 30–50 minutes. Drizzle with truffle oil when done.

White Sangria With Grilled Fruit

Not all peaches are born in Georgia or California. Some pretty darn good juicy varieties have Midwest pedigrees. For this recipe, Hudson uses peaches and strawberries from Branstrator Farm in Clarksville, Ohio.

6 peaches, peeled and split

1 small melon (cantaloupe, or your choice), cut into thick slices

32 strawberries, de-stemmed

2 cups halved grapes

1 bottle pinot gris (Hudson recommends Burnet Ridge)

2 bottles Champagne (Hudson’s local choice is Valley Vineyards)

Two sprigs fresh mint, extra for garnish

One sprig fresh lavender, extra for garnish

Grill peaches until they are a bit caramelized and soft-ish. Grill melon slices until softened. Muddle herbs with the fruit in a pitcher. Puree strawberries in a blender. Mix all ingredients together in a pitcher (or more than one) and chill. Place a peach and melon slice on the rim of each glass; fill with sangria. Garnish with mint and/or lavender.

To make Todd Hudson’s full menu, he recommends these steps:

Make the herb butter (for the burgers) early in the day, or the day before.
Make the sangria early in the day. Chill.
Make the buttermilk dressing for the salad early so the flavors have time to meld.
Grill the beets and the croutons for the salad. Set aside.
Shape the burger patties. Set aside.
Place the potatoes on the grill. Since they take the longest, use that time to grill the romaine, put the salad together, and drink some sangria.
Once the frites come off the grill, keep them warm in a low temperature oven.
Grill the burgers, toast the buns, and enjoy.

A portion of this menu created by Todd Hudson appeared in the July 2012 issue.

Photograph by Jonathan Willis

How to Grill a Whole Fish the Tom Keegan Way

Thu, 28 Jun 2012 11:00:00 GMT

MENU

(serves 4–6)

Grilled oysters

Whole grilled fish

Summer salad

Prosecco with Grand Marnier & strawberries

Tom Keegan is a native Long Islander, lifelong fisherman, and enthusiastic cook. As the owner of Keegan’s Specialty Seafood Market in Anderson Township, he hand-selects the finest fish and seafood from around the world to be shipped daily to his store. When purchasing a whole fish, Keegan recommends you buy from a reputable fishmonger, and only fish that is in season. While salmon is a popular choice and readily available, Keegan prefers red snapper or grouper for their mild flavor and firm, flaky texture. Figure about one-and-a-half pounds of fish per person, and invest in two good spatulas with thin blades for turning.

Whole Grilled Fish

1 6 to 9 pound fish

¼ cup good quality olive oil

Kosher salt and fresh cracked pepper

2 cloves garlic, smashed

2 sprigs of fresh thyme, plus extra for garnish

2 sprigs fresh oregano, plus extra for garnish

2 sprigs fresh parsley, plus extra for garnish

melted butter, for basting

Half a lemon, sliced thin for garnish

Have fishmonger remove scales, guts, fins, and gills. Leave tail on (head is optional). Wash fish and pat dry. If cooking with head on, score fish to spinal bone, perpendicular to spine behind head. Score above tail, as well as few slashes in the side. Rub fish inside and out with olive oil, and season generously with salt and pepper. Place garlic and herbs in cavity. Wipe grill grates with canola oil. Heat grill to 500 degrees or until coals are very hot, then reduce to 425 degrees. Place fish on grill, belly facing away from you, with head at the highest heat, and tail at the lowest. Grill 10 minutes per inch of thickness. Flip fish between two spatulas so belly faces you. Lightly baste with olive oil and melted butter, avoiding flare-ups. Grill for another 10 minutes per inch of thickness. Fish is done when meat inside the belly is no longer translucent. Check the meat at the spine where it was scored behind the head—it should be completely opaque. With spatulas, transfer the fish from grill to platter. Garnish with fresh herbs and lemon slices.

Grilled Oysters

12 fresh oysters (Keegan recommends Rappahannock oysters)

2 Tablespoons olive oil

1 ounce unsalted butter

1 clove garlic, smashed

½ teaspoon oregano

dash of cayenne pepper

1 Tablespoon sauvignon blanc

¼ cup freshly grated Parmiggiano Reggiano

juice of one lemon

Shuck oysters, reserving oyster and its liquor in cupped oyster shell. In sauté pan, heat oil, butter, garlic, oregano, pepper, and wine. Pour sauce over each oyster. Place, cup side down, on grill (you can use crumpled aluminum foil to support them if necessary). Grill 5–7 minutes or until sauce starts to bubble. Remove from grill and finish with lemon juice and grated cheese.

Summer Salad

Dressing:

1/3 cup fresh squeezed orange juice

1 Tablespoon fresh squeezed lime juice

3 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 Tablespoon fresh basil, minced

1 Tablespoon brown sugar

1 clove garlic, minced fine

1 Tablespoon Dijon mustard

sea salt and cracked pepper to taste

Salad:

Enough mixed organic greens and torn romaine lettuce to serve six

¼ cup slivered almonds or chopped macadamia nuts, toasted

1/3 cup Maytag bleu cheese, crumbled

1 small apple, sliced thinly and soaked in lime juice

¼ cup dried fruit (dried cranberries, blueberries, or cherries)

Wisk all dressing ingredients and chill for 30 minutes. Toss greens and romaine with dressing. Top with remaining ingredients.

Prosecco with Grand Marnier and Strawberries

8 strawberries

4 Tablespoons brown sugar

4 Tablespoons fresh lime juice

½ cup Grand Marnier

1 bottle Clara C prosecco

Mix sugar, lime juice, and Grand Marnier together. Marinate strawberries for two hours. Spoon two strawberries and some of the liquor into a champagne flute. Top with prosecco.

A portion of this menu created by Tom Keegan appeared in the July 2012 issue.

Photograph by Chris Smith

How to Grill Ribs the Jackson Rouse Way

Thu, 28 Jun 2012 11:00:00 GMT

MENU

(serves 6)

Dry-rubbed smoked spareribs with Kentucky-style black BBQ sauce

Smoked corn on the cob with chile lime butter

Yam and Yukon Gold potato salad with bacon and mustard greens

Skillet cornbread with grilled peaches, buttermilk ice cream, and smoked honey caramel

If anyone can throw down on ribs, it’s Jackson Rouse. As the chef at Smoq, Rouse routinely serves 270 pounds of St. Louis–style ribs and 200 pounds of baby back ribs on Saturday nights alone. There are as many styles of ribs as there are states in the nation, but the one ingredient they all have in common is patience. Succulent, love-me-tender ribs require low-and-slow cooking; anything else results in little more than charred meatsicles. Pre-boiling them is practically a sin in the church of authentic barbecue, and drowning them in sauce is another. Mopping means basting, and it’s better to do that later in the cooking process rather than earlier, when the sugar in the sauce will burn. Get yourself a beer or two, put on some smokin’ soul music, and seek some barbecue salvation.

Dry-Rubbed Smoked Spareribs

6 pounds pork spareribs (removing membrane is recommended)

Dry rub:

½ cup brown sugar, packed

2 Tablespoons ancho chili powder

1 Tablespoon paprika

1 Tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

2 Tablespoons garlic powder

2 Tablespoons lemon pepper

2 teaspoons onion powder

2 Tablespoons honey powder

2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon espresso powder (such as Medaglia D’oro)

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Mix all ingredients together in a bowl. Rub mixture generously onto spareribs. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or better yet, overnight.

Kentucky-Style Black BBQ Mop Sauce

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

1/4 cup minced onion

1/4 cup plus 2 Tablespoons distilled white vinegar

1/2 cup plus 2 Tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 Tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon light brown sugar

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

scant 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt

Heat vegetable oil over moderate heat. Add onion and cook for 5 minutes, or until onion is soft and light golden brown. Add remaining ingredients, stir, and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes (sauce will thicken slightly).

Prepare outdoor grill for indirect heat, or preheat smoker to 225 degrees. When coals are gray and ashed over, place 2 handfuls of soaked woodchips directly on them. Place ribs on grate, bone side down. Cover and cook for 3 1/2 to 4 hours, periodically adding more coals as needed. Baste with mop sauce, and throw handfuls of soaked woodchips onto coals every hour. Keep temperature from going below 225 degrees. Ribs are done when the rub has created a wonderful, crispy, blackened “bark,” and the meat has pulled away from the bone.

Smoked Corn on the Cob with Chile Lime Butter

6 ears of corn in the husk

1/2 cup serrano chile lime butter (recipe follows)

1/8 teaspoon ancho chile, or to taste

3/4 cup shredded cotija cheese

6 lime wedges

Chile lime butter

2 ounces unsalted butter, softened

1 Tablespoon finely chopped shallot

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh lime zest

2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon minced fresh Thai or serrano chile (preferably red), including seeds

1/2 teaspoon salt

Stir all ingredients together in a bowl.

Prepare smoker to 225 degrees. Soak corn in husks in cold water for 10 minutes. Drain and smoke on a rack until husks are charred, about 20 minutes. Shuck corn and grill until kernels are browned in spots, about 7 minutes. While corn is grilling, grate cotija cheese on small teardrop-shaped holes on a four-sided box grater. Brush softened butter mixture onto hot corn and sprinkle with cotija and ancho chile. Serve with lime wedges.

Yam and Yukon Gold Potato Salad with Bacon, Mustard Greens, and Cider Vinaigrette

3 Tablespoons apple cider vinegar

2 1/2 Tablespoons Creole mustard

1 1/2 Tablespoons honey

1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons hot pepper sauce

9 Tablespoons olive oil

1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into half-inch cubes

1 pound yams (red-skinned sweet potatoes), peeled and cut into half-inch cubes

6 slices bacon, fried, drained, and crumbled

10 large mustard green leaves, cut into 3/4-inch pieces (about 4 cups)

Salt and pepper

Whisk first 4 ingredients in small bowl to blend. Gradually whisk in olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Steam potatoes until tender, about 8 minutes. Transfer to large bowl; toss with 1 Tablespoon dressing. Steam yams until tender, about 7 minutes. Transfer to medium bowl; toss with 1 tablespoon dressing. Add yams, bacon, and mustard greens to potatoes. Toss salad with enough dressing to coat. Season with salt and pepper

Skillet Cornbread with Grilled Peaches, Buttermilk Ice Cream, and Smoked Honey Caramel

For those not inclined to make your own ice cream, Rouse recommends purchasing a pint of good quality vanilla bean ice cream, adding half a cup of buttermilk, and whisking with a wire whisk. Refreeze for one day.

Buttermilk Ice Cream

6 large egg yolks

2 cups heavy whipping cream

2/3 cup brown sugar

Pinch of salt

1 cup chilled buttermilk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Chill a medium-size metal bowl in freezer until cold, about 1 hour. Whisk yolks in another medium metal bowl, set aside. Combine cream, sugar, and salt in large saucepan. Bring to simmer over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Gradually whisk half of hot cream into egg yolks to temper; return mixture to saucepan. Stir constantly over medium-low heat until custard thickens and coats back of spoon, 2 to 3 minutes (do not boil). Remove from heat. Pour cold buttermilk into reserved chilled bowl. Strain custard into buttermilk; whisk. Whisk in vanilla. Chill mixture uncovered until cold, stirring occasionally, about 2 hours. Process in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer ice cream to freezer container. Cover and freeze until firm, at least 6 hours or overnight.

Smoked Honey Caramel

3 cups raw local honey

Prepare smoker at 220 degrees. Smoke honey for 4 hours until thickened.

Skillet Cornbread

1 1/2 cups yellow cornmeal (preferably stone-ground)

1 Tablespoon sugar

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

1 3/4 cups well-shaken buttermilk (do not use powdered)

1/2 stick unsalted butter

Equipment: a well-seasoned 10-inch cast-iron skillet

Preheat oven to 425 degrees with rack in middle. Heat skillet in oven 10 minutes. Meanwhile, stir together dry ingredients in small bowl. Whisk together eggs and buttermilk in a medium bowl. Remove hot skillet from oven (handle will be very hot) and add butter, swirling skillet to coat bottom and side (butter may brown). Whisk hot butter into buttermilk mixture and return skillet to oven. Stir cornmeal mixture into buttermilk mixture just until evenly moistened but still lumpy. Scrape batter into hot skillet and bake until golden, 20 to 25 minutes.

Grilled Peaches

3 Tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 Tablespoons dark brown sugar, packed

6 medium-size ripe but firm peaches, halved and pitted

Prepare grill to medium heat. Melt butter with brown sugar in small skillet over medium heat. Remove skillet from heat. Brush peach halves all over with melted butter mixture. Grill until tender, about 8 minutes, turning occasionally.

To assemble: Cool the corn bread in the cast iron skillet. Top with warm grilled peaches, then buttermilk ice cream. Drizzle with smoked honey caramel. Have spoons ready to serve family style!

A portion of this menu created by Jackson Rouse appeared in the July 2012 issue.

Photograph by Chris Smith

How to Grill Lamb Chops the Daniel Wright Way

Thu, 28 Jun 2012 11:00:00 GMT

MENU

(Serves 4–6)

Grilled lamb chops with Black Mission fig relish

Charred rapini

Cilantro mint Mojito

The scent of a wood-fired grill mingles with downtown cool and snappy service at both of Chef Daniel Wright’s popular Over-the-Rhine restaurants, which he operates with his wife, Lana: the dog-slinging, poutine grinding, craft beer emporium Senate, and its Mediterranean-flavored sibling Abigail Street. Due in part to Lana’s Jordanian heritage, lamb is a familiar dish on the table, and its rich, sweet-yet-savory profile lends perfectly to a wood-fired grill. If you are new to lamb, Wright recommends beginning with well-marbled loin chops cut to 1½ inches, which maximizes the surface area to the fire and produces a beautifully crisp char. Trim the excess fat to prevent smoke and flare-ups, and keep the rub simple. Lamb is a great friend to bold seasoning, but less means more of the meat’s delicate flavor shines through.

Grilled Lamb Chops

12 1½-inch thick lamb chops (3 to 4 ounces each)

1 Tablespoon smoked Spanish paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 Tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper

2 teaspoons olive oil

In a bowl mix paprika, cumin, salt, and pepper. Drizzle lamb chops with olive oil and vigorously rub spice blend on to both sides. Allow chops to sit at room temperature for 20 minutes. If you’re using a charcoal grill, fire it up; if gas, pre-heat to high. When the grill is sizzling hot, reduce heat to medium. Place lamb chops directly over heat (for charcoal grill, medium heat refers to cooking chops over indirect heat) and cook for 3 minutes. This will sear the meat and lock in the juices. Rotate chops 90 degrees (this creates nice grill marks); cook another 2 minutes. Flip chops, cook 3 minutes. Turn 90 degrees; cook for 1–2 more minutes, then remove. Lamb should be a lovely medium and slightly firm to the touch. Top with a generous amount of fig relish.

Black Mission Fig Relish

2 pints fresh Black Mission figs

1 small red onion

2 small jalapeño peppers

3 sprigs fresh mint

2 Tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 ounce extra virgin olive oil

2 ounces white wine vinegar

Remove stems from figs and cut into quarters or rough chop into large pieces. Finely chop red onion and rinse with cool water (this removes the bitterness). Slice jalapeños down the middle lengthwise; discard pith and seeds. Finely chop jalapeños. Remove mint leaves from stems and chop. Combine figs, onions, minced jalapeños, and mint in a nonreactive bowl. Stir in sugar, salt, oil, and vinegar; toss ingredients and place bowl in refrigerator until ready to use. Top grilled lamb with a generous spoonful of cool relish.

Charred Rapini

2 bunches rapini or broccolini

4 cups water

3 Tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon crushed red chili flakes

1 Tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon crushed black pepper

2 Tablespoons sugar

Place rapini in a large bowl. Cover with water, 2 Tablespoons olive oil, chili flakes, salt, pepper, and sugar. Set aside and allow greens to marinate for 30 minutes. Pre-heat grill to high. Strain liquid from rapini and discard. Place rapini on grill. After 3 minutes, flip. Cook for 3 more minutes. Remove. Drizzle with remaining olive oil and adjust seasoning if necessary. Serve immediately.

Cilantro Mint Mojito

Wright calls this “the perfect summer cocktail.” Yield: approximately 8 cocktails

1 cup sugar

2 cups water

1 bunch fresh cilantro, roughly chopped or leaves pulled from stems

12 sprigs fresh mint

2 limes (halved and quartered)

1 bottle Mount Gay Eclipse Silver Rum

2 liters club soda

Ice

Simple syrup: In a pan combine water and sugar; stir until dissolved. Bring to a boil, remove from heat, and place in refrigerator to cool. Simple syrup will keep for up to two weeks.

Per cocktail: Combine 1 Tablespoon of cilantro (it’s fine to use the stems, they have more flavor and are a little bit sweeter than the leaves), 2 to 3 large mint leaves, 2 lime quarters, and 1 ounce of simple syrup in a 16-ounce mixing glass/cocktail shaker. Using a muddler or the handle of a wooden kitchen spoon, gently smash until the lime pieces are juiced. Fill glass with ice, add 1 1/2 ounces of rum, and shake until well blended. Pour ice and all into a tall glass; fill with club soda. Garnish with a sprig of mint.

A portion of this menu created by Daniel Wright appeared in the July 2012 issue.

Photograph by Chris Smith

Pecan Mocha Pie with Coffee Cream

Donna Covrett — Thu, 22 Nov 2012 12:00:00 GMT

This is the pie that launched my career as a pastry chef. It still can be found, in a similar version, on the menu at Mecklenburg Gardens. It’s a variation of a pie made famous at Blum’s, a San Francisco sandwich and sweet shop that closed in the 1960s. Though the preparation appears rather lengthy (it is made overnight in two steps), most people claim it’s similar to giving birth: After one bite, all memory of the long passage is erased, and they’re ready to do it again. This pie is wonderful year-round, but one note of caution: Unless you keep your kitchen extra chilly, I don’t recommend attempting this pie on a hot, humid summer day. That’s what blueberries are for.

Chocolate Pecan Crust
1 cup of pie crust mix (I use my own, but a box of JIFFY Pie Crust Mix works fine)
1/4 cup dark brown sugar
1 cup chopped pecans
scant 1/4 cup unsweetened chocolate, chopped fine
1 Tablespoon water
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 9-inch pie plate. In bowl, combine dry ingredients, add water and vanilla, and mix until it just comes together. Press into bottom and sides of pie plate. Bake 12–14 minutes. Cool.

Mocha Cream Filling
4 ounces unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 ounce of bittersweet chocolate, melted and cooled
2 teaspoons instant espresso
2 eggs

In bowl of electric mixer, beat butter until creamy, gradually adding sugar. Blend in cooled melted chocolate and espresso powder. Add one egg; beat 5 minutes. Do not rush. This gives the filling a creamy, light consistency. Add the other egg; beat another 5 minutes. Again, do not rush. Turn filling into cooled shell. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Coffee Whipped Cream
2 cups heavy cream
2 Tablespoons instant espresso
1/2 cup confectioner’s (10x) sugar
3–4 ounces high quality semi-sweet chocolate, room temperature

Combine cream with instant espresso powder and sugar. Refrigerate, covered, overnight. Next day, whip cream until stiff peaks form. Pile cream on top of mocha cream filling. With a vegetable peeler, shave large curls of semi-sweet chocolate and drop over the coffee cream until covered as desired. Keep pie chilled until ready to serve.

Originally published in the November 2008 issue.
Photograph by Nathan Kirkman

Pizza Dough and Quattro Formaggi Pizza

Thu, 28 Jun 2012 11:00:00 GMT

Pizza Dough

From Jeremy Luers

(yields six to eight 10-inch pizzas)

4 cups warm water (110 degrees, or warm to touch) 

1 Tablespoon dry active yeast 

2 teaspoons sugar 

2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra 

2 Tablespoons mild flavored honey

1 Tablespoon kosher salt 

10–12 cups “00” flour (a finely milled soft grain flour; you can substitute all-purpose flour)

Quattro Formaggi Pizza

3–4 ears fresh corn (approx. 1 cup grilled corn)

4 scallions, thinly sliced, green part only 

2 balls fresh mozzarella (break into coin-size pieces)

6 ounces ricotta cheese (coin-size chunks) 

4 ounces Fontal (Italian fontina; available at specialty cheese shops like Krause’s in Findlay Market)  

A few ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano for grating

Sea salt & pepper to taste

This recipe is part of a full menu created by Jeremy Luers for the July 2012 issue.

Photograph by Chris Smith

Farro Salad “Panzanella Style”

Thu, 28 Jun 2012 11:00:00 GMT

Farro Salad “Panzanella Style” 

From Jeremy Luers

Farro is a nuttier, crunchier cousin to wheat, popular in Italy.

1 ½ cups farro (makes 3 cups when cooked

 2 bay leaves 

2 garlic cloves, smashed

 1 Tablespoon salt

¾ cup English cucumber partially peeled & diced (Luers recommends leaving some peel on)

  1 ½ cups diced tomato (Luers prefers heirloom varieties) 

½ cup thinly sliced red onion 

1–2 cloves of garlic, grated on a zester

 ½ cup packed basil leaves, hand torn 

¼ cup celery heart leaves (optional)

 1/3 cup sherry vinegar (can substitute red wine or balsamic)

 1/2 to 2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil 

Salt and pepper to taste

This recipe is part of a full menu created by Jeremy Luers for the July 2012 issue.

Photograph by Chris Smith